When we booked that great and cheap train from Roma to Napoli it came with an option to register for a free walking tour of centro storico (free walking tours entail only a requested tip, usually €10, and our experience with them is very good). It started at 10 on our last day and we weren’t so enthusiastic but it was really worthwhile. We learned about a lot of stuff we could have done in the city if we were there longer than 3 1/2 days. Our guide, born and raised and in love with the city, opened our eyes to more of its charms and of course of its history.

I tried to take photos whenever I especially enjoyed her explanations but there was so much more. For example, she explained that housing in Napoli was dominated by working class “basso” apartments; ground floor one room accommodations that entire families shared. When they wanted more space the only direction available was down, a project often stymied by encountering ancient structures. She showed a photo of a narrow street interrupted by a small amphitheater revealed when the occupants tried to add a basement.

As we walked deeper into the areas filled with tourists the noise level climbed from loud to very loud, interrupted by clusters of students (college?) yelling and chanting encouragement as a guy paid to have a foaming lemon soda (must be alcoholic) into his open mouth. Ugh. Our guide said she hoped someday it would be outlawed and we agree. In spite of the chaotic situation we pressed on, down tiny narrow commercial streets I could never find again, many selling locally made nativity components. She said the Christmas time holiday used to be December 7 when families brought out their nativity scenes. When you move out of your parent’s home you begin to collect your nativity items, growing and personalizing them year by year. Napolitanos like our guide rue the change to Christmas trees and December 25 celebrations.

After 2+ hours we had finished, and we asked her for a pizza recommendation. She suggested we walk straight up the street to the market area and find Pizzaria Alitto. We did, we loved it, and returned for our last dinner—twice in one day!

This morning we left, some anxiety about flights and a new airport and security on our minds.
We booked Easyjet. What a lovely airline! And the Naples airport is modern, all in one terminal, organized and plenty of good coffee alternatives. We left on time, there was ample luggage space on board. Officially my favorite airport in the world.